Like so many newer bistro type restaurants El Tule hides in something of a dark shack of a building along a less frequented street. The décor hints at something you’d find in a local South American dive including the somewhat garish religious figures. In good weather, there are a series of outdoor tables and chairs in the Walmart style. Such modest surroundings however, often belie the elegance of the kitchen’s fare. In the case of El Tule this is generally true, but not always.
I had researched El Tule sometime before and the drive to Lambertville was prompted specifically by the reviews I had read and the interest of trying Peruvian recipes. While the restaurant is titled as Mexican, a special menu of traditional preparations from Peru is available on weekends.
As usual, we arrived for an early dinner. Early dinner avoids the crowd and the risk of the food being rushed or confused. An early dinner allows savoring the food with little distraction.We opted for outside and we were seated immediately. Our waiter informed us that while he was Peruvian, it was his brother-in-law, the chef, who was Mexican. As was our initial intent, we asked for the Peruvian menu. We noted that we would like to create a shared tasting menu and he was most accommodating. Then, somewhat too rehearsed he gave us what was clearly memorized preface to the menu. When I asked for details, he quickly noted that all the specifics were spelled out for each dish. Now, when I’m dining in a restaurant with special fare, I like to hear about every aspect of the offerings, especially when the food is unknown to me. Before we even arrived we had determined that we would try the “Ceviche Mixto,” the “Peruvian Sampler” and “Carapulcra.” Our only remaining question was the order in which to serve them. He suggested we start with the ceviche then the sampler then the stew. The waiter took our order and returned immediately with a plate of nachos and a small triple bowl ceramic piece with three sauces: one spicy, one oniony and one that wavered between the other two. The nachos offered a nice pastime while waiting for the ceviche but on the practical side, the triple ceramic bowls were so small that you couldn’t dip the nacho into them. They need a far more practical serving piece. The other significant clue about the attention to detail at this restaurant was the sour cream. It wasn’t real sour cream but one of those gelatin based products. The attention given to small details at the start hints at what to expect from what will come later.
I had researched El Tule sometime before and the drive to Lambertville was prompted specifically by the reviews I had read and the interest of trying Peruvian recipes. While the restaurant is titled as Mexican, a special menu of traditional preparations from Peru is available on weekends.
As usual, we arrived for an early dinner. Early dinner avoids the crowd and the risk of the food being rushed or confused. An early dinner allows savoring the food with little distraction.We opted for outside and we were seated immediately. Our waiter informed us that while he was Peruvian, it was his brother-in-law, the chef, who was Mexican. As was our initial intent, we asked for the Peruvian menu. We noted that we would like to create a shared tasting menu and he was most accommodating. Then, somewhat too rehearsed he gave us what was clearly memorized preface to the menu. When I asked for details, he quickly noted that all the specifics were spelled out for each dish. Now, when I’m dining in a restaurant with special fare, I like to hear about every aspect of the offerings, especially when the food is unknown to me. Before we even arrived we had determined that we would try the “Ceviche Mixto,” the “Peruvian Sampler” and “Carapulcra.” Our only remaining question was the order in which to serve them. He suggested we start with the ceviche then the sampler then the stew. The waiter took our order and returned immediately with a plate of nachos and a small triple bowl ceramic piece with three sauces: one spicy, one oniony and one that wavered between the other two. The nachos offered a nice pastime while waiting for the ceviche but on the practical side, the triple ceramic bowls were so small that you couldn’t dip the nacho into them. They need a far more practical serving piece. The other significant clue about the attention to detail at this restaurant was the sour cream. It wasn’t real sour cream but one of those gelatin based products. The attention given to small details at the start hints at what to expect from what will come later.

Ceviche
Our first course arrived fresh from the sea, a beautiful blend of shrimp, baby octopus, calamari, corvina, green sweet potato slices and corn. This mixto had been marinated in a lime juice with just a hint of sweetness and heat provided by peppers and red onions. The large corn nibs on the plate were a pleasant pairing surprise to the little thimbleful of roasted corn nibs on the side. The portion was certainly sufficient as a starter for the three of us to share. It would have been more enjoyable had the waiter stayed by for a moment to explain the fish and the presentation. After all, there was only one other table with customers outside with us.
We had a respectable pause after the first course, but then, he brought out the sampler and the main course at the same time. Now, I can see this kind of thing happening later in the evening when they want to move the tables, but the place was still empty. We wanted to take our time to appreciate each course. The second problem at this point was our individual dish. It was something the size of a drink coaster. It barely fit one forkful of anything at a time. I suppose I should have spoken up and asked for a standard size plate, but it just didn’t think of it at the time. I probably also should have asked him to take back the main course until we had finished the sampler. But let me go on to the dishes at hand.

Sampler
Visually the sampler dazzles.In one corner sat a potato shaped ball of mashed potatoes molded around a savory stuffing. Unfortunately, because he didn’t dally for the details, I don’t know what the stuffing was. But the ensemble was rich and satisfying. In another corner a tail-up shrimp reigned above a kind of avocado blend whose exact contents I do not know but whose savory taste led you on. Fried yucca occupied the third quarter and the forth side presented a delightfully textural blend of yellow mashed potatoes interlayered with a chicken seasoned with hints of lime and avocado.The quartet surrounded a simple garnish of carefully seasoned fresh greens.

carapulcra
The main course, the “Carapulcra,” fell severely short of expectations. While the menu suggests an exotic ancient Peruvian stew that dates from the time of the Incas, what appeared on the dish was a reminder in taste and appearance of a 1955 Horn and Hardhart beef stew. The stew was primarily a plate of a brown potato based gravy accompanied by a small piece of meat of unknown origin, (the menu says pork, but it looked like beef), and about a quarter cup of rice. I'm not sure where the red onions fit in. As you can see, it was not very appetizing, although it was filling.
Overall the service was pleasant although mechanical. Two out of three courses were certainly good but nothing exceptional. When comparing to other somewhat exotic ethnic foods, such as Vietnamese or Korean, in terms of new tastes and value for the meal, I would go with a Vietnamese or Korean cuisine over the Peruvian of El Tule.
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