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Fish.  A simple name for a far more than simple experience. What an excellent dinner.  But before I tell you about it, let me give you a warning.  The online address for Fish is 17th and Lombard.  Well, after parking and walking, it wasn't there.   17th and Lombard is the home of "Brick."   So, I called Fish and they informed me that this seems to happen quite often.  Fish is at 12th and Locust.   I would strongly suggest that someone take this problem in hand.  The only good thing about the switch was that with the new kiosk parking tickets, I could take the one I paid for at 17th Street and use at 12th.  Oh, yes, Brick also offered me 10% off my next dinner with them.  One more thing.  The entrance to Fish is not on Locust.  It’s on the side. And there is no clear sign.  I walked up and down several time before I found the sign on the bottom of the door.

But let me talk about the evening.  Inside, the tables are a bit close.  The décor is a soft gray with warm small lights.  The bar in the center radiates the luminosity.  We were there for an early dinner.  The bar crowd was still the main audience and the music was a bit on the harsh side for dining. But I must say that the musical selections mellowed by the time our dinners were ready.

When I’m in a new restaurant, I like to do a menu tasting.  I always make this known to the server and in thoughtful restaurants they are not only accommodating but they seem to applaud the decision.  I think good servers and good restaurants are eager to show as much as they can of what they offer.

We were three. With the servers guidance of what would work for three we were on our way to delight after delight.  The evening’s “crudo” played the overture.  This lovely arrangement of steamed cod  laid out on a beet coulis and dressed with a cod stomach and red onion offered the most delicate flavors and textures.  Salt and sweet, crisp and delicate played back and forth.   The serving was certainly sufficient for each of has to have a tasting.   We followed the fish with a cheese tray: Spanish goat, English Cheddar and a Blue with fine apple slices, toasts, and sweet chutneys or jelly.    Perfect.   My only thought is that we should have asked for this to be served at the end, since we didn't order dessert.

Then came the first course:  braised and grilled octopus in a black garlic puree.  A friend had recommended this and the server assured us that this was a house specialty.  When the server presents it, you are taken by the delicate fragrance and rich exotic color.   You cut and fork.  The second it falls between your teeth, you enter new realm.   The octopus is full and tender with an ocean of secondary flavors from sugar to salt.  Once again, the portion was sufficient for three.  

We followed the octopus with the mussels in Panang curry.  While the curry was good, especially as a soup when the mussels were gone, I’m afraid to say it was nothing exceptional, especially if you have ever enjoyed mussels in a good Vietnamese restaurant.   The mussels themselves were ok - here too, they were a bit dark and small.  Either not a great quality or over cooked.   It would be a good idea for Fish to serve this with bread and a spoon.  But don’t let me bring you down. 

It was now time for the main course.   Once again, even though we selected only two items, the serving sizes were sufficient for three people.  With the help of our skillful server we decided on the skate wing and on the Cobia.  I have long enjoyed skate wing in Asian preparations, but “Fish” presented this delicacy in a vibrant new way. The skate wing was  golden fried and served without any bone or cartilage, a prep-work wonder and served with melted leeks on spetzel with parmigian sauce.  It was like eating a cloud that was born in the sea. The melted leeks are genius.  The serving was the whole wing and enough that we took some home. Definitely the best dish of the evening.  Our second main was the Cobia.  The full and dense quality of this fish was enhanced by the ingenious surroundings of lamb sausage and Brussels sprouts.   I cleared the bowl of its sauce with my bread.

Now the exceptional quality of the food cannot be denied.  But there was another aspect of our evening that moved simple eating to a dining experience: our server.   He carefully and thoughtfully explained every aspect of each dish, and stayed with us as we questioned him endlessly.  When you have such a server you appreciate a link with the chef and the food that gives the fullest dimension to your experience.   After dinner, I asked him if was a cook and he said yes, it was his passion.  But that to know about the food he serves is also his business.  Yes, that’s certainly true. But to me, there are those who know functionally and then there are those who because they love.  The latter was our server.  Great evening.  Excellent food. Superb service.


Fish website
 
 
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